Works fine for me.
C43/C47 bezel expected when?
Re: C43 bezel expected when?
Great!
I didn’t mean to say one shouldn’t; I was answering the question if I have a file with that drawn, and saying why I don’t have a file. Sorry!
Jaco Mostert
Elec Eng, South Africa
https://47calc.com C47 (s/n 03818 & 06199), WP43 (0015). In box: HP42S, HP32Sii, WP34S&C, HP28C, HP35s, EL-506P, EL-W506, PB700; ex: FX702P, 11C, HP67 & HP85; iOS: 42s Byron, Free42+, WP31S/34S, HCalc.
Elec Eng, South Africa
https://47calc.com C47 (s/n 03818 & 06199), WP43 (0015). In box: HP42S, HP32Sii, WP34S&C, HP28C, HP35s, EL-506P, EL-W506, PB700; ex: FX702P, 11C, HP67 & HP85; iOS: 42s Byron, Free42+, WP31S/34S, HCalc.
Re: C43 bezel expected when?
Bezel v2, this time cut with a exactoknife. Same paper as the first I made: 250g A4, 0,25 mm thick.
Better than first time, no accidental cuts this time, and no torn but much sharper edges.
I left a flap to hold, when spraying varnish.
And here's the finished result, three thin layers of matt varnish. As a final touch, I used a black permanent marker to cover the white edges at the cuts. My marker's tip is too big to get into the corners, so I'll get a smaller one to cover the remaining white parts.
Here's v1 for comparisson
This second version with varnish is more stiff and completely flat, so it fits perfectly. Luckily it didnt warp when I sprayed it with warnish. I think the thick paper helped and that I sprayed very thin layers of varnish.
Better than first time, no accidental cuts this time, and no torn but much sharper edges.
I left a flap to hold, when spraying varnish.
And here's the finished result, three thin layers of matt varnish. As a final touch, I used a black permanent marker to cover the white edges at the cuts. My marker's tip is too big to get into the corners, so I'll get a smaller one to cover the remaining white parts.
Here's v1 for comparisson
This second version with varnish is more stiff and completely flat, so it fits perfectly. Luckily it didnt warp when I sprayed it with warnish. I think the thick paper helped and that I sprayed very thin layers of varnish.
/Rudi
DM-42 (s/n 06999), HP-42S, HP-35s, HP-11c, HP-32SII (ex HP-41CV, ex HP-75C, ex HP-48G + a lot, really lot of a accessories)
Denmark
DM-42 (s/n 06999), HP-42S, HP-35s, HP-11c, HP-32SII (ex HP-41CV, ex HP-75C, ex HP-48G + a lot, really lot of a accessories)
Denmark
Re: C43 bezel expected when?
Absolutely stunning result. Well done.
Re: C43 bezel expected when?
A question about the metal bezel:
Is it intended to replace the DM42 bezel, or go on top of it, like the paper ones?
Is it intended to replace the DM42 bezel, or go on top of it, like the paper ones?
DM41X #542, DM42 #650, DM41L #801, HP 41CX, HP 41CV, HP 50G, HP11C, TI 89
Re: C43 bezel expected when?
Both
/Rudi
DM-42 (s/n 06999), HP-42S, HP-35s, HP-11c, HP-32SII (ex HP-41CV, ex HP-75C, ex HP-48G + a lot, really lot of a accessories)
Denmark
DM-42 (s/n 06999), HP-42S, HP-35s, HP-11c, HP-32SII (ex HP-41CV, ex HP-75C, ex HP-48G + a lot, really lot of a accessories)
Denmark
Re: C43 bezel expected when?
Nice. So everyone can choose for themselves how permanent the conversion should be.
I'll probably replace the original bezel then, because I think that'll look nicer.
I'll probably replace the original bezel then, because I think that'll look nicer.
DM41X #542, DM42 #650, DM41L #801, HP 41CX, HP 41CV, HP 50G, HP11C, TI 89
Re: C43 bezel expected when?
Me too. Really like the C43. Can’t wait for the permanent replacement bezel
/Rudi
DM-42 (s/n 06999), HP-42S, HP-35s, HP-11c, HP-32SII (ex HP-41CV, ex HP-75C, ex HP-48G + a lot, really lot of a accessories)
Denmark
DM-42 (s/n 06999), HP-42S, HP-35s, HP-11c, HP-32SII (ex HP-41CV, ex HP-75C, ex HP-48G + a lot, really lot of a accessories)
Denmark
Re: C43 bezel expected when?
A few things I wanted to share:
- I prefer thinner overlays because they keep more of the keys above
- I like using the lateral "flaps" and the holes because it is then easy to fix and remove an overlay. I started designing them this way for the DM41x and I want to be able to change them. This is less an issue with the C43 but still, it is nice to change them when I improve the design or the cutting precision
- they are not always flat but storing them under a heavy stack of books for a few days or weeks usually is enough
- I'm gonna try some 3M 75 repositionable spray adhesive anyhow
Here is how I install them:
First, insert the flaps in the hole on the left side:
The flaps on the right will be very close to the DM42 right edge:
Then I push them gently into the hole with the tip of a pocket knife:
One the 3 of them are in their holes, the overlay will not move but it can be removed the same way: with the tip of the knife, pushing alongside the right side whilst being careful not to scratch the original bezel below.
- I prefer thinner overlays because they keep more of the keys above
- I like using the lateral "flaps" and the holes because it is then easy to fix and remove an overlay. I started designing them this way for the DM41x and I want to be able to change them. This is less an issue with the C43 but still, it is nice to change them when I improve the design or the cutting precision
- they are not always flat but storing them under a heavy stack of books for a few days or weeks usually is enough
- I'm gonna try some 3M 75 repositionable spray adhesive anyhow
Here is how I install them:
First, insert the flaps in the hole on the left side:
The flaps on the right will be very close to the DM42 right edge:
Then I push them gently into the hole with the tip of a pocket knife:
One the 3 of them are in their holes, the overlay will not move but it can be removed the same way: with the tip of the knife, pushing alongside the right side whilst being careful not to scratch the original bezel below.